"It’s been over a month since I returned from my second trip to Antarctica with AE Expeditions, and I still find myself processing the experience. I know how incredibly fortunate I am to have travelled to one of the most remote and untouched places on Earth—not just once, but twice. With only around 80,000 people setting foot on the White Continent each year*, I’m part of a very small and privileged group.
My most recent expedition, Wild Antarctica featuring the Weddell Sea, took me aboard the beautiful Sylvia Earle to a lesser-visited part of the continent. Located on the eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula and accessed via the Antarctic Sound - a narrow body of water between the peninsula and a cluster of islands - the Weddell Sea is often unreachable due to massive icebergs drifting into the region. I was astounded by how dramatically different this side of Antarctica felt compared to the western peninsula.
We spent three unforgettable days exploring the Weddell Sea, visiting rarely seen islands and encountering colonies of Adélie penguins waddling along their ‘penguin highways’, as well as fur seals engaging in playful skirmishes. It felt like stepping into another world.
The Weddell Sea played a pivotal role during the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration, with legendary figures like Shackleton and Nordenskjöld leaving behind tales of both triumph and tragedy. Our expedition team brought these stories vividly to life. As we sailed past towering tabular icebergs and even stepped foot onto the sea ice - a personal highlight - I could imagine what it must have been like in the early 1900s, when explorers ventured into the unknown. Every day spent on the seventh continent made me feel like a true adventurer.
Due to unpredictable weather and shifting ice, we eventually left the Weddell Sea and headed to the western side of the peninsula, where the adventure continued. We zodiac cruised through fields of brash ice, hiked to breathtaking viewpoints, and visited iconic locations like Deception Island – a flooded volcanic caldera where abandoned whaling stations and airstrips are slowly being reclaimed by nature. It was also where we took part in the infamous polar plunge, the brave (or completely bonkers) amongst us dared to jump into -2 degree water to earn the badge of honour, swiftly followed by a dip in the ship’s heated outdoor pool.
Visiting Antarctica with AE Expeditions in March is a uniquely magical experience. We were treated to the glowing sunrises and sunsets that this time of year is known for – a photographer’s dream. One of the most memorable aspects of the trip was the sheer number of whale encounters. From orcas swimming alongside the ship to "whale soup" moments where humpback and minke whales surrounded us on all sides, it was extraordinary. During one zodiac outing, we spent 45 minutes among sleeping humpbacks, bubble-net feeding whales, and curious giants approaching our boat – close enough that we could smell their breath. I’ll never forget the moment a humpback whale breached right in front of us.
Our ship carried just 130 passengers, allowing everyone to disembark for landings at the same time – fully respecting the Antarctic rule of only 100 people ashore at once. With small groups and a spirit of adventure, many guests joined in on AE Expeditions’ optional activities like snorkelling, scuba diving, and kayaking. Swapping stories over evening cocktails quickly turned strangers into friends.
What I’ll always carry with me is the memory of Antarctica’s profound silence. Whether it was the crackling of ice beneath our zodiac, the thunderous calving of a glacier in the distance, or simply the breath of a whale breaking the stillness, the sound - or lack of it - was unforgettable."
Words by Katie Harber, Senior Business Development Manager at AE Expeditions
Explore Antarctica with AE Expeditions