Forget sun loungers and port promenades — this voyage was all about zodiacs, icebergs, and the silence of the Arctic. For Ryan Johnston, our Managing Director, it was a leap into expedition travel with his young family in tow. Setting sail aboard Swan Hellenic’s SH Vega, they traced the remote coastlines of East Greenland, before turning to the dramatic fjords of West Iceland.
What followed was ten days of ice-strewn wonder: polar bears on distant ridges, orcas slicing through silver seas, and a shipful of experts bringing this frozen world vividly to life. We caught up with Ryan to hear how it all unfolded: through a child’s eyes, a parent’s perspective, and a traveller’s curiosity for the farthest edges of the map...
A 10-day, round-trip sailing from Reykjavík with zodiac-led exploration in East Greenland’s fjords, including NE Greenland National Park and Ittoqqortoormiit - one of the world’s most remote towns - plus two stops in Iceland’s western fjords.
After many ocean and river cruises, I wanted a true expedition: remote, unusual, and wildlife-rich (with a genuine chance - however rare - of polar bears). We also wanted to understand small-ship expedition travel as a family. Swan Hellenic felt ideal for Destinology’s audience: immersive and accessible, with a luxury feel.
I worried at first about boredom, as expeditions emphasise education and hospitality over entertainment. That disappeared within a day. Each day brought adventure. Zodiac outings, icebergs, wildlife spotting, engaging lectures (the Northern Lights talk was a favourite), and glacier vistas. Our rhythm became: big daytime adventure → board games → family dinner → early night. The kids never got bored.
The crew were outstanding: they learned the children’s names and ages, remembered what each enjoyed, and checked in constantly. Our youngest was determined to see an orca, and the team made that a shared mission. Dining was flexible (off-menu dishes when needed) and a special ice cream after dinner quickly became tradition.
Polar bear with cubs — witnessed from the zodiac and ship; a magical, humbling moment of gratitude and disbelief.
First iceberg up close — skyscraper-like walls of ice in deep turquoise and blue; pure awe.
Orca on the final night — grace and presence; a deeply special sighting that thrilled our youngest.
The warmth and friendship of crew and fellow guests; the thrill of the polar bear encounter, and the adrenaline of the zodiacs. Weaving between ice felt joyfully cinematic, almost James Bond-like.
Ittoqqortoormiit was a highlight. We were welcomed into a local family’s home for tea and a conversation about daily life in such a remote place. Our children chatted with theirs; we compared “a typical day” in both worlds. It was a grounded, human exchange we’ll always remember.
An unexpected joy. The expedition leaders were world-class experts: geologists, wildlife and whale specialists, a Greenland cultural expert, and even a doctor focused on the aurora borealis and solar dynamics. Briefings and talks brought every landing to life. Military-trained specialists managed shore operations and safety, ensuring we respected wildlife, especially polar bears, while staying safe ourselves.
We stayed in a spacious, modern suite with a large double bed and two rollaway beds for the children. Storage was ample and the amenities aligned with a luxury experience. A beautiful electric (wood-burning-effect) fireplace made for cosy evenings as icebergs drifted by. Lovely for family time after days ashore.
Expedition cruising is all about venturing out by zodiac, learning as you go, and forming real connections with nature, culture, and one another. For our family, Swan Hellenic made the Arctic feel both safe and thrilling, with just the right touch of luxury. It's an experience we’ll remember for a lifetime.